Things to Do In the Desert … Palm Desert

We live in beautiful Palm Desert, CA, in the heart of the Coachella Valley. Our house is 25 minutes from Palm Springs, 20 minutes from the Empire Polo Club (aka Coachella), and 10 minutes from the Indian Wells Tennis Garden.

Looking for ideas on what to do when you visit? Here are some of my favorites.

Nature

Joshua Tree National Park: truly a beautiful and strange place where the Mojave and Colorado deserts meet. Do yourself a favor and go to the far less crowded Cottonwood entrance. It’s about 45 minutes to the visitor’s center from our house and using that entrance has you miss the long lines at the others. Visiting in this direction, you pay at the exit.

  • It’s a perfectly enjoyable few hours to simply drive through the park and get out and look around whenever the beauty calls for it. The simplest loop with time for short stops will take 3-4 hours.
  • If you want to add in a self-guided audio tour, this is a good one.
  • Some of my favorite places to visit are the Ocotillo Patch (am in love with these plants), the Cholla Garden, and Keys Point (great for sunset).
  • JTNP is a designated Dark Sky Park, which means it’s spectacular for night skies.
  • There is ZERO cell coverage in the park, so make sure you download maps or music or whatever you might want before you get there.
  • If you exit at the West Entrance, which I would suggest, you’ll drive out through the town of Joshua Tree and its cute art shops, and you NEED to stop at the cutest bar ever, The Copper Room. Excellent apps and cocktails and a beautiful view from the bar.

Moorten Botanical Garden: also a weird and delightful place, right in Palm Springs. It’s a small, privately owned garden full of enormous cactus and otherworldly desert plants. They also have tortoises. I will go here as many times as possible, I just love it. It only costs $8 and will take you about an hour. Great spot for photos, and a lovely place to stroll on a comfortable day.

The Bump n Grind Trail: I’ve never actually done this because I don’t like going uphill. Or downhill. But the locals sure love it – I see super fit seniors practically racing up and down this every time I ride my bike past the trailhead. It’s only about ten minutes from our house, is listed as a moderate hike and is less than 4 miles round-trip. Get it. Alltrails description page with directions.

Indian Canyons and Tahquitz Canyon: Two beautiful locations on the Agua Caliente Indian Reservation in Palm Springs. You have to pay around $15 per person to access either of these locations but 1) they’re really beautiful and 2) isn’t it time, in the words of Midnight Oil, to pay the price? Check out this website comparing various trails when trying to narrow down which one.

Palms to Pines Scenic Byway and Idyllwild:If you’re in the mood to drive (or moto), this is a great option. Take windy and beautiful Route 74, which starts less than 10 minutes from our house, all of the way up into the mountains for beautiful views and high desert flora. You can take it all of the way to San Diego, but a better day trip option could be Lake Hemet, San Jacinto State Park, or the adorable town of Idyllwild. Here’s a good guide.

Whitewater Preserve: about 15 minutes north of Palm Springs and way off the road is a beautiful oasis and park. In the valley between two big dark crests, the preserve is full of beautiful cottonwood, sycamore and palm trees. There’s a 3.5 mile loop trail you can walk or you can just stroll through the pretty grounds and gaze into the crystal clear water of the two (sadly non-swimmable) pools. The Pacific Crest Trail runs just past the park. No cell coverage.

Art

Salvation Mountain: The mountain is a wacky art installation created by Leonard Knight, who spent over 30 years building it by hand. It’s made of adobe clay and full of bright colors, hearts and religious references. (I first saw it in the movie Into the Wild.) Great for photos. It’s about 1.5 hours away and part of a lovely day trip to the Salton Sea, Bombay Beach, and East Jesus.

East Jesus: Just down the road from Salvation Mountain is a very cool art gallery/museum/sculpture park. It’s an eclectic mix of sculptures, paintings, and other installations, created using scrap metal, found objects, and recycled materials.

Bombay Beach: Can you swim there? No. Are there fancy cafes or restaurants? Also no. But if you are into weird places and cutting-edge art, this is a place to check out. Once a thriving resort town in the 1950s, the area fell into decline due to flooding and pollution, but it has since undergone a revival as an unlikely and unique tourist destination. Regularly changing sculptures and art installations. Every time I go it’s a delightful surprise.

Palm Springs Art Museum: Considering that Palm Springs is such a small town, it’s got a pretty great art museum. It’s right in downtown PS and occasionally gets really amazing traveling exhibits. Nice little outdoor sculpture garden. There’s also an architecture museum, which is nice if that’s your thing.

Desert X: If you happen to be visiting in the spring, you might luck into a Desert X exhibit. Every other year, a bunch of artists create big sculptures and art pieces out in various spots around the Coachella Valley. They’re often fun or beautiful or moving, but always make for a great adventure.

Shopping

El Paseo: fancy shopping real close to our house. This is a nice place to go for a stroll, get a coffee, maybe a cocktail or a meal. They’ve got art galleries and clothing boutiques as well as chains like Anthropologie, Apple, and Sundance. Also Louis Vuitton, Tiffany, and Gucci. It’s fancy. And pretty. Did I mention it’s fancy? Excellent people watching though.

Downtown Palm Springs: this corridor seems to get bigger and more developed every week. It’s a core part of the PS experience but can be crowded and difficult to find parking. I’d aim for a weekday if you want to avoid the craziness. About 30 minutes from our house.

  • Absolutely Fabulous: Great store with a definite Palm Springs vibe. An amazing curated selection of art and gift books, decor, cards, art.
  • Mojave Trading Post: I love this store. It’s kind of an Instagram-influenced vibe, but they have great jewelry, house wares, vintage clothing and all sorts of cool things. Great if you need to buy souvenirs or gifts. There’s also one in Joshua Tree if you’re going that way.
  • bobo Palm Springs: a stationery lovers dream, Angie created a cute little neighborhood shop that is perfect for browsing, buying gifts, and dreaming up new projects. She makes a lot of the products, too, and designs feature many of my favorite things: the desert, dogs and National Parks.
  • Market Market: insanely expensive but really great place to see cool clothes, art, and furniture.
  • The Best Bookstore in Palm Springs: it’s small, it’s cute, it’s got good books and fun reviews. And that’s its name.

Eating

Look, we’re not foodies. There are spectacular restaurants in the area if that is your thing, we’re just not going to be experts. I’d check out Eater if that’s your thing.

These are the places we like to go to.

Cactus Jacks: right down the street from our place, this is a local’s joint. Think great prime rib, super strong cocktails, and lots of golf-related art on the walls. It’s my goal to get a Cheers-like Norm greeting when I walk in the door. I’m not there yet.

Wilma & Frieda’s: small delicious breakfast joint in the El Paseo shopping area (10 minutes away). Probably going to be a wait, almost certainly will be worth it. Mimosas are great, and so is the French Toast (and the coffee). There’s one in Palm Springs proper, too.

Mario’s Italian: old school, kind of kitschy Italian joint with very Americanized traditional things like Chicken Parm, Clams Linguine, and Spaghetti and Meatballs. Giant glasses of inexpensive wine.

Chicken Ranch: I don’t know what they do to this chicken but it’s really fucking good. The Bahn Mi sandwich is probably my favorite, but the salads are amazing and so is the chicken wok. Nice wine selection and outdoor seating area. In the heart of Palm Springs.

Billy Reed’s: Another old school, slightly kitschy spot with AMAZING people watching. If you can, sit in or at the bar. Great house dressing. Very strong cocktails. In Palm Springs, 30 min away. This is a great write up.

Pappy & Harriets: Great place for music and delicious meat-based foods way up in the high desert. They don’t take reservations and you’ll probably have a wait but it will be worth it. About 50 minutes from our house. Check out to see who’s playing if you’re considering a visit.

Coffee

Rutina: this is my current favorite coffee place. Right in Palm Desert, it has great coffee, seating indoors and out, and amazing pastries.

El Paseo Starbucks: this is not your normal Starbucks — it’s populated by a crazy cross-section of people. If you go in the morning and sit on the patio you might just get to hear the locals ribbing one another and shooting the shit. Great tourist people-watching.

Varraco Coffee Roasters: if you are a coffee snob, this is probably the local place for you. It takes ten minutes to pull you a coffee but it’s really delish and the baristas are super nice. They have really amazing pastries, too.

Cartel Roasting Company: great indie coffee shop in Palm Springs. Nice place to sit and read or chat, either inside the shop or out on the patio.

About Me

I’m Victoria Griffith and I am enthusiastic about a LOT of things. Pine trees and mushrooms and the desert. Ocotillos, motorcycles, travel, and photography. Friendship and writing and books and surviving the love of your life’s terminal diagnosis. I blog about some of these things here, mostly about books and writing, but about the other stuff now and then too.

I was born in Paterson NJ, call Seattle WA my home, and spend the winters in the desert of Southern California. I try to get out to see as much of the world as time and money will allow. 

If you’d like to say hi, you can reach me at vgriff@vgriff.com.

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